Crochet the Runway: How to Recreate the Iconic Hermès Kelly (and Birkin) Bag with Crochet

I debated starting this series with a classic piece of clothing, like the Chanel little black dress, or perhaps going in chronological order from the post-war era (the Golden Age of Fashion). Then, over brunch with a friend, I was inspired to focus on bags - and of course, my mind immediately went to the quintessential luxury bag: the Birkin. But as I thought more about it, I realised that I have always preferred its older sister: the Kelly bag. The Kelly bag is structured, classic, and, dare I say, a bit more regal - while the Birkin is wilder, more flamboyant. In my opinion, Kelly walked so Birkin could run.

The designs of both bags are similar enough that I can apply the same basic crochet process to both with a few intuitive alterations. So, let’s dive into the history of these bags and see how we might recreate the Kelly bag in crochet.

A Bit of History

The Kelly bag was originally designed in 1892 as the 'Haut à Courroies', created to carry riding equipment (Hermès, after all, has deep roots in equestrian gear). However, it wasn’t until the 1950s, when Grace Kelly was often photographed carrying the bag, that it became widely known as the Kelly bag. The most iconic image was when Grace Kelly used the bag to hide her pregnancy, which only added to its mystique and allure. In 1977, the bag was officially renamed in her honor.

Why have we stopped dressing like this?! This coat is everything.

On the other - more flamboyant - hand of the spectrum, we have the Birkin bag. Worn by every single rich and famous personality under the sun, it is mentioned in rap songs, movies and tv shows like Gilmore girls (btw the pink ostrich Birkin Logan gifts Rory is like 44k) or Sex and the City. Pop culture loves a Birkin bag. It was born after a conversation between Jane Birkin and Hermès CEO Jean-Louis Dumas on a flight to London in the 1980s, where she spilled the contents of her bag on him. This incident prompted a discussion on the need for pockets and Jean-Louis Dumas sketched the new design on a sick bag.

Fun fact: before the Birkin, Jane was knows for carrying everything in a whicker basket. It is visible on a lot of old photos. Her husband - at the time - intentionally ran over her basket (clearly a well adjusted gentleman) and that's why she ended up spilling everything on Jean-Louis Dumas.

Both bags have become incredibly hard to acquire - not only because they’re expensive (ranging from $10K to millions) but also due to their exclusive nature, with long waiting lists and each bag handcrafted by a single artisan. But despite the Birkin’s fame, it’s the Kelly bag that remains the true classic in the world of luxury handbags.

How to Crochet the Kelly Bag

1. Structure and Shape

To achieve the signature trapezoidal shape of the Kelly bag, I would start at the bottom (the wider part) and gradually introduce decreases every couple of rows to gently taper the sides. The key is to maintain a slight trapezoidal shape, so I’ll keep the decrease gradual and not too steep. I’ll be using plastic canvas to provide structure to the bag, ensuring that the final result stays sturdy and retains that recognizable silhouette.

Once the crochet is done, I’ll clean up the edges to make sure everything is neat and precise.

2. Handle and Strap

For the handle, I would crochet a small tube, which will provide enough structure to support the weight of the bag without being too stiff. For the crossbody strap, I’ll crochet a flat strip for comfort and consistency. However, I may opt for leather or faux leather for the handles and strap if I want more durability and authenticity, attaching them with D-rings for secure and stylish functionality.

The handle and strap will be attached to the bag’s canvas backing, either by sewing or screwing them into place, depending on the hardware I find.

Davies, J. (2023, November 16). Hermès Kelly bag - The ultimate buying guide | Global Boutique. Global Boutique. https://globalboutique.com/chronical-blog/ultimate-buying-guide-hermes-kelly-bag

3. Material Choice

For the yarn, I’m leaning toward a mat cotton for the feel - it’s both soft and sturdy, ideal for maintaining the structure of the bag. I also like the texture it provides. If durability becomes a concern, I may switch to a nylon blend, which would offer more resilience without compromising the look and feel.

The plastic canvas will help the bag maintain its form, so my yarn choice is mainly about creating a sturdy but elegant finish. It needs to be strong enough to hold the shape but still soft enough to handle comfortably.

4. Colour Palette

I’m choosing neutral tones like cream or hazelnut brown. These colours complement my existing wardrobe and bag collection, while also keeping the design classic and timeless. I want to make sure the Kelly bag can easily pair with anything, and I feel like these colours do just that. I prefer more subtle tones for this project, saving brighter, bolder colours for rounder, more playful designs.

I like the idea of using two neutral tones like the below examples:

Phillips, L. (2023, October 4). 5 things you need to know about Hermès Kelly Mini — Léa Phillips | Fashion Stylist Australia. Léa Phillips. https://www.lea-phillips.com/blog/5-things-you-need-to-know-about-hermes-kelly-mini

5. Hardware & Lining

The hardware is key to completing the luxurious feel of this bag. If I can find vintage-style gold hardware, it would be perfect, but I’ll also be on the lookout for modern pieces that match the bag’s aesthetic. The turnlock closure is a signature feature, and I’ll make sure to source one that fits the scale of the bag.

As for the lining, it’s optional if I use the plastic canvas to provide structure. However, if I want a more polished, durable finish, I’d sew in a fabric lining onto the crochet and canvas pieces before joining the bag. This step would help add structure and protect the inside of the bag from damage.

Prototyping and Assembly

Before starting the final piece, I’ll create a paper model (in a smaller size) to test the shape and identify any challenging areas in the design. This will help me visualize where adjustments might be needed and iron out any potential issues before moving to the final crochet version.

For the assembly, I’ll likely use a whip stitch or mattress stitch to join the pieces together. I’m also considering using contrasting yarn tones (like cream and beige or brown and cream) to add a bit of dimension and texture to the seams, which will give it that extra level of detail.

Conclusion

I’m excited to maybe start crocheting my very own version of the Kelly bag, blending fashion history with my passion for crochet. The Kelly bag is a true icon, and by breaking it down into its essential features, I am confident I can make a crochet version that’s both stylish and functional. Stay tuned for the next chapter of this journey as I work through iconic Fashion pieces and how I would go about recreating them using crochet.